Tag Archive for designs and styles

Casalguidi Stitch How-To

The Casalguidi (cas-a-gwee'-dee) stitch is a traditional padded surface stitch popular in Portuguese embroidery. Of course, it is named after and comes to us from the beautiful town of Casalguidi located in Pistoria and the luscious Tuscany region of  Italy.

In the early 1900s, the woman of Italy attempted to spark the local economy by opening embroidery schools. The most famous school was in Casalguidi where the legend of this stitch begins.

This fabulous padded three dimensional stitch is a rope design traditionally  done on linen fabric. It is easy to do but looks quite impression when completed.

If you have been wanting to create a heavy textured design, do try this stitch. It is very useful for making wall hangings that pop right off the wall. It also makes bags and purses that are to die for.

  • Use linen or similar weight fabric with an open weave.
  • Traditionally, cord was used to form the padding but you can also use a grouping of yarn or string.
  • Whatever you select for your padding, use the couching stitch to attach it to your fabric.
  • Cover your couched padding with a neutral base color using the satin stitch.
  • You will be weaving through the next layer of stitches so select your thread color and again cover the padding but this time at about 1/4" intervals thus making bars.
  • Do not pull these stitches too tight to your padding as you will need the space for the weave.
  • Take care to create smooth stitches especially where (or if) your padding is curved. This layer of foundation bars will support your weave so spend time making it neat.
  • Switch to a tapestry needle for weaving that you do using the stem stitch along the foundation bars.
  • Take your needle through the fabric only at each end of your padding. For the remainder of your stitches do not pierce the fabric;  just work through the bars.
  • Be sure not to pierce your foundation bar threads as you weave through.
  • At the end of each row, push your stitches down and together with your tapestry needle so they are smooth and dense.
  • You don't want to see any spaces at this point. If you pierced your bar threads, you will not be able to do this properly.
  • Work in one direction only. Do not work back and forth along the padding.
  • Once the padding is completely covered, take bullion knots at both ends of the padding to create a polished finish.
  • You will create lovely snake skin like rows so experiment with multiple colors, variegated and metallic threads.
  • Make your art unique by leaving your end threads long, bushy and uncovered instead of weaving end-to-end and then finishing with bullion knots.
  • You can also suspend beads or tassels from the Casalguidi ends.

Algerian Eye Stitch How-To

The Algerian Eye stitch is a basic cross stitch often used in needlework samplers.

It's also known as the Star stitch because of the resemblance to a star.

It's a simple design style rather than an actual stitch as it uses the straight (satin) stitch taken 8 times in a square pattern.

It can be used to form flowers, borders, rows and, of course, stars.

The Star Eyelet stitch is just a variation of the Algerian Eye using 16 stitches instead of 8 as show in the picture above. You can take every fourth stitch a bit longer for added interest.

  • Either work on even weave fabric or sketch a square on your fabric the size of your desired star.
  • Come up from the back side of your fabric in the center of your square.
  • Thinking of a clock, take the either a straight or diagonal stitch as appropriate 8 times starting a 11:00 o'clock, moving clockwise and ending with stitch number 8 at 9:00 o'clock.
  • Always stitch from the center out to the next place on your clock.
  • Experiment with over tightening each stitch so that your fabric distorts a bit and emphasizes the center of the star design.
  • Try adding a seed bead at each center stitch.
  • The Algerian Eye stitch is a good one to do with ribbon although you might not want to pull the ribbon tight.
  • Also try variegated and metallic floss for a sparkling effect.

The Star Eyelet Stitch is just a variation of the Algerian Eye using 16 stitches instead of 8. You can take every fourth stitch a bit longer for added interest.

Challenge Yourself with Chinese Embroidery

In China, embroidery is much more than stitching. It is a long establish form of art that is done by both men and women. It is theater, ceremony,  religion and imperialism.

Watch the video below to see true Chinese stitchers in action!

From robes to pouches to flags to shoes to Buddha artwork, if it's made of silk it can be Chinese embroidered (although other fine fabrics are also used).

Chinese embroidery was once a way of denoting rank or station in life. Powerful emperors donned highly intricate pieces that took months if not years to create. The finest pieces have perfectly mirrored two-sided designs with mysteriously hidden knots.

Suzhou (Su) embroidery is considered the finest in China. The other three popular styles are Guangdong,  Hunan and Shu. Visit Su Embroidery for photos of this incredible style.

Special Qualities of Chinese Embroidery

Embroidery is embroidery wherever it's done but Chinese embroidery, said to be the oldest in the world, is focused upon creating realist looking designs from silk threads that rival museum paintings.

Chinese Embroidery is characterized by:

  • Patterns that are often more detailed with their art becoming part of the design.
  • Brilliantly colored silk threads.
  • Threads that have been divided to the most finest width.
  • Stitches that are repeated so as to create a highly dense structure.
  • Great attention to creating shadows, highlights and texture.
  • Precisely proportioned scenes or objects and uncluttered expressions.
  • Images that rival reality in its purest most beautiful form.
  • Imagination and creativity.

This style is done with a very large hoop or most often with a standing frame.  The frame enables working the needle with one hand on top of the fabric and the other underneath. This allows for the most precise stitch, the smoothest fabric and the flattest stitch possible.

Give Chinese Embroidery a Try

If you love exquisitely fine detail, brilliant colors, silky and satiny fabrics and creating your own works of art,  give Chinese embroidery a try. It is not for the impatient or those without an artistic passion and will challenge even the most skilled needle crafter but the end result is amazing and well worth the effort.

You will need:

  • A traditional Chinese embroidery pattern.
  • Silk, satin or other delicate textured fabric.
  • Silk thread in bright colors.
  • A Sharps size 10 needle (which has a smaller eye for working with finer fabrics).
  • A large hoop or for best results, a free standing frame.
  • Mastery of the Beijing stitch (French knot).
  • Time, patience, determination and a creative spirit.

Chinese Embroidery Stitch Types

While this style demands great attention to detail and precision, it uses the most common stitches including:

The Traditional Chinese Designs Iron-on Transfer Patternsbook was published in 1987 but is one of the best books on the subject. It has a wonderful selection of 41 traditional Chinese iron-on designs including dragons, cranes, fish, lotuses, peonies and chrysanthemums. Each design has suggested stitches and thread colors. If you need a little more guidance, this book is highly recommended.It's a great way to get started on this unique style of embroidery. Order the Traditional Chinese Designs today!

This video has some great close ups of Chinese
embroidery stitches as well as how to work
the stitches using a frame. Enjoy!

Cross Stitch How-To and Video

Cross stitching is an old but ageless counted thread embroidery that consists of diagonal and x-shaped stitches that, when properly placed, form a detailed picture.

Although cross stitch uses the simplest type of stitches, when it comes together, you get a remarkably beautiful design. Cross stitching is used in  Celtic,  Blackwork and Hardanger embroidery.

If you want an easy stitch and structured form to follow, cross stitching is perfect for you. In addition to the classic "x" stitch, cross stitching uses variations called the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 stitches as well as the basic back stitch.

Watch the videos and follow these directions to perfect your Cross stitch.

  • Cross stitch designs are either stamped onto the fabric or, true to the counted technique, is done by following a stitch chart that is divided into square grids.
  • Stamped designs are highly recommended for a first time project.
  • If doing counted stitching, be sure to use an even weave 14-22 thread fabric such as Hardanger and Aida.
  • The size of your finished design will be determined by the number of stitches per inch. For example a 28 inch wide design will be 1 1/4 inches on a 22 weave fabric.
  • Use a size 24 or 26 tapestry needle, which has a blunt tip.
  • Start stitching in the center of the design and work out.
  • Use an embroidery hoop to ensure that your stitches are smooth and flat.
  • Knots will show through so as shown in the video, hold about an inch of  your thread underneath until your stitches secure to the fabric.
  • Likewise, carrying your thread from element to element may also show through so avoid as much as possible.
  • Cross all your "x's" with the top thread slanting in the same direction otherwise your design will look choppy.
  • To end your stitch, instead of tying off a knot, run your thread under several stitches on the back side of the fabric.
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